I forgot my phone's passcode

The one sentence that matters

Your passcode is not stored anywhere that anyone can read. On a modern iPhone or Android phone it is mixed into the key that encrypts the storage, inside a dedicated security chip. There is no copy of it on a server, at the manufacturer, or at your carrier.

This is why no legitimate person can tell you your passcode, and it is why the phone is genuinely safe if you lose it. The same design that protects you from a thief also protects the phone from you when you forget.

So the practical question is never "how do I recover the passcode". It is "am I able to erase this phone and then prove it is mine".

The two locks people confuse

Almost everyone who is stuck is stuck because they are treating two separate locks as one.

The screen lock is the passcode, PIN, pattern, or biometric that opens the phone. Erasing the phone removes it.

The account lock is Apple's Activation Lock or Android's Factory Reset Protection. It survives the erase on purpose. After the phone is wiped it will ask for the Apple Account or Google Account that was signed in before, and it will not accept a different one.

If you know that account's credentials, a forgotten passcode is an inconvenience and a data loss. If you do not, erasing the phone will not help you and may leave you worse off, because the phone becomes unusable until that account is recovered.

Check that you can sign in to the account on the phone BEFORE you erase anything. Do it on another device, at the account provider's own website.

Before you touch anything

1. Stop entering guesses. Repeated wrong attempts add lockout delays and on some settings can trigger an automatic erase after ten failures.
2. Work out which account is signed in on the phone. Look at the lock screen for a hint, check your email for receipts or account notices, or check the account provider's device list from a computer.
3. Confirm you can sign in to that account right now, on another device. Reset its password first if you need to — that is the step that unblocks most people.
4. Find out whether a backup exists, and how old it is. This decides how much you actually lose.
5. Only then decide whether to erase.

Where your backup would be, if you have one

On iPhone, check iCloud from a browser signed in to your Apple Account, and check any computer you have synced the phone to. An old local backup on a laptop is the single most commonly forgotten lifeline.

On Android, check Google One's backup section, and check whether photos were syncing to Google Photos or another cloud. Many people who think they lost everything have their photos already uploaded.

Messages are the usual casualty. SMS and app-local chat histories are often not in a cloud backup unless you specifically enabled it.

What the erase actually does

Erasing does not repair anything and does not bypass anything. It destroys the encryption key, which makes the existing data unreadable, and returns the phone to setup.

You then walk through setup, sign in to the same account the phone expects, and restore a backup if you have one. Anything not in that backup is not coming back.

This is the entire legitimate path. Any service promising to remove a passcode while keeping your data is either erasing it anyway, tampering with the device's identity, or taking your money.

Stop and get help when

• The phone asks for an account you cannot sign in to and cannot prove is yours.
• The phone is under a work or school profile — the organisation controls it, not you.
• You bought it secondhand and the previous owner's account is still attached.
• Losing the data is not acceptable and you have not yet checked every possible backup.

Official route

Apple Support or Google account recovery, with your proof of purchase. For a device you bought secondhand, the seller is the only person who can release the account lock.

Who this is for: You must own the phone or be authorised to manage it, and be able to sign in to the account already on it.